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Brake Pedal Calibration (G920)


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#1 shomke

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Posted Aug 11 2017 - 02:59 AM

Hi All,

I am new to SRMZ, so again hello everybody !
I used to drive on GPL on an irregular basis since 3 to 4 years, and just reached a pretty poor rank of 152 :).

I changed my old wheel for a G920 with last week, and I am a bit struggeling with the bloody hard brake pedal.
It is easy to tweak the braking range in other games like lfs, in order to reach max braking point before it gets too hard.
I tried to do the same calibrating the pedal axis in gpl (e.g. not pressing the pedal at the maximum during calibration, or playing with the tringle cursor) but I did not manage anything.

Has someone an idea about how to set the braking range in gpl?
I understand what's the cursor for the wheel calibration, it set the neutral/centre point. But what is the cursor doing for the pedal calibration?

Many thanks for your help!

#2 Bob Simpson

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Posted Aug 11 2017 - 12:07 PM

I'm not familiar with the G920, but I have a G25 with a load cell.  My procedure is:

After unplugging/plugging in the wheel/pedals unit, it goes through it's self calibration for the wheel.

At any time before I go into the calibration window in GPL, I have to press the brake pedal it's full range.  That's a pretty hard stomp on the brake.  If I don't do that, the calibration is unreliable in GPL.

In the GPL calibration window (sounds like you already do this), I press to a certain number on the scale - 130 usually.  If I want a lighter touch for full braking, I'd go to 120 or so.

#3 shomke

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Posted Aug 13 2017 - 07:31 AM

Thanks Bob,
I tried again few times. Strangely, when i don't press the pedal to its full range in the GPL calibration window then my brakes gets very weak in game...
I think I will just live with it, waiting for a new pedal rubber from 3DRap :)

#4 Bob Simpson

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Posted Aug 13 2017 - 08:29 PM

But you pressed the pedal hard BEFORE you went to the calibration screen as I suggested?

#5 John Woods

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Posted Aug 14 2017 - 02:56 PM

Just my DFGT theory...

Calibrate in GPL and Win Game Controller to set everything at max range then adjust by percent using Logi Profiler and save settings to a custom profile.

Maybe 920s are similar?

#6 shomke

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Posted Aug 15 2017 - 12:11 PM

Thanks guys,
I am not at home this week, but I will test again few thinks this week-end.
Bob, I indeed tried to press the pedal hard before entering the calibration scene. By hazard, did you mean that I need to enter the calibration screen with the pedal pressed?
John, I'll do some tests and let you know the outcome.
Note that "my cars" are still possible to drive. It is just uncomfortable. Even an effort to keep the car immobile on some starting grids.

Edited by shomke, Aug 15 2017 - 12:12 PM.


#7 John Woods

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Posted Aug 16 2017 - 09:35 AM

View Postshomke, on Aug 15 2017 - 12:11 PM, said:

Even an effort to keep the car immobile on some starting grids.

Definitely calibrate to full range in GPL calibration.
You can make sure you are getting full range in Win Game Controller.

Read GPL Addicts Setup Guide

Then maybe experiment some with brake bias?

Also as I recall the cursor is not used to set the center...it is computed between the limits set left and right by turning the wheel, so it is most accurate when wheel is set to max range. The cursor only indicates the range to give user something to look at.

Note again my wheel is a DFGT.


:D

Attached Files


Edited by John Woods, Aug 16 2017 - 09:51 AM.


#8 Bob Simpson

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Posted Aug 16 2017 - 03:20 PM

View PostJohn Woods, on Aug 16 2017 - 09:35 AM, said:


Definitely calibrate to full range in GPL calibration.
You can make sure you are getting full range in Win Game Controller.



With my load cell - http://www.apelectri...om/index.html  , if you calibrated in GPL for full force or full load, you'd never be able to lock the wheels.  So you have to hold back just enough that at the full force that you want to use the wheels lock, just like in real life.

So after the initialization after I plug in the G25 USB, I press VERY HARD and release.  Then I open the GPL calibration window and instead of pressing very hard again (255 on my screen), I press to about 130 for what I feel is a realistic force to lock up the wheels.  Sometimes I use 120 if I feel a bit lazy :) .

#9 shomke

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Posted Aug 21 2017 - 07:28 AM

Well I got time to do some testing this week-end.

Bob, as you said the calibration in GPL does not work the same if I do or don't press a pedal after starting GPL and before entering it or not.

If I don’t press a pedal before entering the calibration in GPL, the pedal calibration gets done leftward, i.e. the little triangle starts at the right side of the bar and progressively move leftward when I press the pedals. Then I can successfully modulate the braking not pressing hard the brake during calibration.

On another hand, if I press a pedal before entering the calibration then the pedal calibration is done rightward, i.e. the little triangle start at the left side of the bar, and move rightward. In that case the in-game break gets very week (see not breaking at all) if I don’t press hard the brake pedal during calibration.

So it seems that for my G920 the process is the reverse that for your G25. Don't ask me why... :)

Edited by shomke, Aug 21 2017 - 07:31 AM.





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