Pete Gaimari, on Feb 01 2014 - 01:59 PM, said:
Just for reference. I don't know if you remember the thread i started to try and find a realistic setup. Realistic to the real cars that is.
I made what I thought was close to the real cars. Even with a 45/85/1 diff setting. It had so much understeer I found it undrivable. That pretty much made me give up trying to duplicate the real settings. Maybe the wheel rates are close, but the rest can't be close.
I used to talk to Andy Wilkes a lot in the old days. he told me the setups he posted were what he raced. Loose setups are easy on tire temps, because they turn so well. It's an understeering setup that overheats the front tires. Also a loose diff setting on the power side will overheat the inside rear tire from so much tire slip coming off the turns.
I remember when I first started to drive GPL tires overheating was a big problem. Once I satrted to go to looser setups like Steve's and the other aliens. Tire heat wasn't a problem anymore. as a matter of fact. If you didn't really push hard. You couldn't get enough heat in the tires for maximum grip.
I basically agree with what you say.
Used to race guys like Andy and Greger, only in N2003 leagues that was. Great guys on and off the track!
This is how I setup the car:
I want an amount of wheelrate correctly, and the ratio between front rear, so that it's balanced over the car's total weight including driverweight and fuel (in GPL!, not duplicating real 1967 settings), with the right weightbalance (often in approach as I don't know the exact weightbalance for most mods, however I think most default setups have the right wheelrates as a base). Depending on the track characteristics you need to add some and keep the ratio in order not to bottom out. You want the car as low as possible for a low gravity centre. Ofcourse sometimes (especially at tracks with lots of height differences) you need to have a higher ride height and bigger bump rubbers in order not to bottom out. Like at the Nürburgring going up and down.
For the rest it's tire analysis and adjusting tirepressures and camber and find the right amount of ARB, and a ratio to find the right balance. I keep conservative toe settings, little toe out/little toe in. Mostly use average bump/rebound settings. Further tweaking diff and eventually fine tuning it with GPL setupmanager, plus gearing, brakebias and strg lock. I use mostly diffs with 5-7% locking percentage (45/45/1 and alike) on both sides, on and off. I want my tiretemps in balance front/rear, rather a slight balance to the rear, I hate understeer, and when the fuel burns off you will get slightly more understeer, in my experience, due to the shifting weight balance I guess. But by your driving you can manage the tiretemps also...then it's basically only finetuning, and finding the right ARB amount and ratio in the end to find the balance I like. Qual setup has less fuel, 1% less brakebias, and slightly more rear bar.
In the end it's a personal thing, setups, everyone drives different and has their own preferences. There is absolutely no right or wrong in setups. If it works for you, then it's right for you. But having a certain method setting up and creating a base setup might help, this has become my method now. When you drive the same sort setups you get used to it and will be more comfortable predicting how the car will handle, giving more confidence.
Edited by Robert Fleurke, Feb 01 2014 - 07:22 PM.