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1966 Stable Setups Required


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#1 Tobodestroyer2020

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    Denny Hulme

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Posted Apr 25 2020 - 12:41 PM

Hi,

I've returned after a break and I've set myself a goal; master the 1966 F1 cars. I like the power but I don't seem to be able to find a comfortable setup. I'm aiming for driveability rather than speed at this point. So, where can I find a decent base-line setup for the McLaren M2B? I never know where to find them (or request them) on this forum.

Thanks in advance.

Pete


#2 Millennium

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Posted Apr 25 2020 - 01:46 PM

If you want drivability in general start with a 85/35 differential, maximum amount of clutches and brake bias at around 60 percent or even higher.
It won't be fast, but it will be easier to control

#3 JonnyA

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Posted Apr 25 2020 - 01:56 PM

It really depends what you call stable. I hate understeer and most of my setting use a 30 power side diff setting, but feel very stable to me.

#4 Tobodestroyer2020

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Posted Apr 25 2020 - 03:38 PM

I tend to favour a 60/60 diff with 55% front brake bias. These are variables which I understand and can feel when I drive.

So, I'm guessing that I would be better asking about ride height, wheel rates and bumps as those are the three that I don't fully appreciate whilst driving. I guess I'm asking for a stable chassis. Does that make it any clearer? Sorry if it's still a bit ambiguous.

Thanks.

#5 JonnyA

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Posted Apr 25 2020 - 04:11 PM

Ride height should be 2.5" everywhere except the Nurburgring, where I'd go for 4". Bumps I set to 0.5", never understood why you would want them longer but some people do. Default wheel rates are pretty good in 66, maybe change 3 or 4 slicks up or down for personal taste but the harder I push the less it seems to matter.

Some of the cars in 66 are very tail-happy (heavy engines!) so it's important to play with the front and rear tail bars to get a neutral response. This helps a lot with being able to hold a four wheel drift, without having the tail snap out.

Final point: don't be too proud to run brake balance as high as 58-59%, some of the 66 cars seem to need it.

#6 jgf

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Posted Apr 25 2020 - 05:55 PM

Pick a track with which you are familiar and can lap easily.  Run enough laps to warm the tires and get a feel for the car, now change all springs one click, stiffer or softer, and do more laps.  Repeat this procedure, going the other direction with the springs, then return to the initial setup and repeat, changing the shocks (dampers).  Repeat, changing just one end of the car.  You will eventually find what combination works for you, then it's just a matter of tweaking.  You want a setup that matches your driving style, not try to adapt your driving style to someone else' setup.  (Michael Schumacher liked his cars set up so stiff and twitchy that even his team mates could not drive them, yet he did quite well.)

BTW, I've found brake bias can be extremely sensitive;  just one click can make a world of difference in some cars.

Edited by jgf, Apr 25 2020 - 05:56 PM.


#7 Millennium

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Posted Apr 26 2020 - 04:55 AM

What is exactly the problem regarding drivability? Oversteer while turning in or oversteer while powering out of a corner?

Because dampers, springs and ride height only have subtle effect in my experience. Anti-rollbars have a more dramatic effect, but still nowhere near a much as the differential.

#8 Tobodestroyer2020

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Posted Apr 26 2020 - 09:19 AM

Thanks for help so far. I've dialed in some laps at Snetterton as that's a track I'm comfortable with. I'm sticking to the McLaren M2B and things are getting better. I've put the front brake bias back up to 58 from 50. That 50 setting is from my days with red Mono wheel and using paddles to shift; I used to trail brake with my left foot but now I like to do things properly with clutch and H shifter. That has certainly made braking more stable.

Wheel rate I've borrowed from my 67 F1 Cooper setup and it seems to be very stable.

My aim is to find one car and really dial it in before I spend hours at lots of tracks getting slow times.






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