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Logitech G920 Wheel And Pedals


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#1 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 15 2019 - 11:13 AM

It works for PC or Xbox One. Still like new. Very few hours of use. I was keeping it as backup for a Fanatec setup but I decided to sell it instead.

$150 + ship

#2 KARTM

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Posted Dec 15 2019 - 01:04 PM

with the usa average shipping price and the  US $ .you can have a brand new one for the same price

Edited by KARTM, Dec 15 2019 - 01:05 PM.


#3 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 15 2019 - 02:36 PM

I paid $229 for it. The best price I see now is $200. How much do you want me to lose after using it for about 2 hours?

Your post would get you banned on some forums.

#4 KARTM

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Posted Dec 16 2019 - 12:10 PM

just to be sure you wont edit

View PostPete Gaimari, on Dec 15 2019 - 02:36 PM, said:

I paid $229 for it. The best price I see now is $200. How much do you want me to lose after using it for about 2 hours?

Your post would get you banned on some forums.
just to be sure it wont bet edit

Edited by KARTM, Dec 16 2019 - 12:10 PM.


#5 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 16 2019 - 05:01 PM

I only understand English.

Since you screwed up this sale. Show me where you can get a new one for $150.

#6 Saiph

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Posted Dec 16 2019 - 05:53 PM

Pete, just calm down a little man. :simmadown: :chillpill: :)  I'm sure SRMZ users are intelligent enough to make their own judgement whether your price is good for them or not, no matter what KARTM's opinion is. Just give it a little time, you might get an offer. Talk of getting people "banned" is just Trumpian.

Good luck with the sale! :thumbup: :wave:

#7 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 16 2019 - 06:53 PM

I didn't expect him to get banned. I just wanted to point out it's really frowned on with a lot of forums.

Anyway, you're right. I'm calmed down now. Thanks.

#8 one2fwee

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Posted Dec 17 2019 - 04:42 PM

Good luck!
For me, I would try and avoid logitech wheels these days anyway because of the minimum FFB issue. Not sure what the thrustmaster alternative at that price range is though and how it compares.
I have a G27 but in some ways i prefer my old logitech momo racing because it was before they introduced the stupid "we will not respond to any forces below 18% or so" :crap: in the firmware.
Of course, if i could hack a driver or make some wrapper to adjust the FFB sent to the wheel to start from its "minimum", that would help things slightly. It still means you have less precision though, because your datarange is then compressed :/ but it would be a lot better.

#9 Brocky05

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Posted Dec 17 2019 - 06:05 PM

why do i get the feeling people dont want you to sell your wheel Pete

btw im not in the market for a new wheel but good luck in the sale anyway

#10 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 17 2019 - 06:50 PM

 one2fwee, on Dec 17 2019 - 04:42 PM, said:

Good luck!
For me, I would try and avoid logitech wheels these days anyway because of the minimum FFB issue. Not sure what the thrustmaster alternative at that price range is though and how it compares.
I have a G27 but in some ways i prefer my old logitech momo racing because it was before they introduced the stupid "we will not respond to any forces below 18% or so" ::crap:: in the firmware.
Of course, if i could hack a driver or make some wrapper to adjust the FFB sent to the wheel to start from its "minimum", that would help things slightly. It still means you have less precision though, because your datarange is then compressed :/ but it would be a lot better.

I don't understand this? The FF in my G920 feels damn near as good as my Fanatec. Maybe they fixed it since your G27.

 Brocky05, on Dec 17 2019 - 06:05 PM, said:

why do i get the feeling people dont want you to sell your wheel Pete

btw im not in the market for a new wheel but good luck in the sale anyway

Yeah, not on this forum anyway. I haven't bothered to advertise on any other forums yet. I thought i'd give you guys a chance first. That worked out well.

#11 one2fwee

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Posted Dec 17 2019 - 07:51 PM

Yes sorry, my comment wasn't really appropriate sorry.
You would be better off posting elsewhere like race department or reddit or facebook or something, i don't know. Somewhere with a larger audience.

And it does have it, really. Download wheelcheck (it is hard to find as it is one of those things gated by the iracing community but i found a link here: https://www.dropbox....1_72.zip?dl=0  ).

Do a "Step Log 2 (linear force test)" (basic instructions here: https://www.racedepa...or-for-ac.9740/ ) and it will roughly show you where the wheel starts responding in comparison to the amount of force sent to it.
What it won't actually do is show you the proper linearity (so that data given to the LUT tool won't be correct).
The reason for this is that it is getting the information based on how far the wheel as moved. Whereas to accurately measure the linearity, what you really need to do is measure the force output from the wheel. Someone did this in another topic somewhere, they attached a steel rule to the wheel and placed it resting on some scales. Then they gradually increased the strength of force send to the wheel and recorded the amount they were sending and the force recorded on the scales.
This gave them a true linearity graph.

The minForce or "Step Log 2 (linear force test)"  is still enough to find out what you need to know though! With most wheels it should be quite low, i think my momo was less than 3% which is probably just due to resistance in the wheel mechanism. My G27 is i think around 18 or at least over 15% which is terrible.

It would actually be really interesting for you to test all your wheels to see. I am pretty sure all new logitech wheels have the issue though. I was given a driving force GT and that has the issue too. The momo doesn't, but is only 240 degrees!

I am guessing that the driving force gt might not as it is the same kind of era as the momo but has 900 degrees, but i haven't tried it so I can't confirm!

Edit:
I found the topic!! https://www.racedepa...mptions.124937/

Edited by one2fwee, Dec 17 2019 - 08:05 PM.


#12 Roger_F

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Posted Dec 19 2019 - 08:38 AM

I just bought a G29 Logitech wheel and after some considerable research and trial and error ... I like it very much.  My old Momo gave up the ghost so to speak after many years of useful service.  One thing I noticed is that the amount of allowed steering wheel rotation has a large effect  on the amount of force felt at the wheel.  After much testing I settled on 320 degrees of rotation as a good compromise.  900 degrees is way too much as is 800, 700, 600, 500 etc.  I set the wheel sensitivity at 80% and the FFB at .0001;  40: and 540, again good compromises found after a lot of testing.

I also took apart the pedals and exchanged the position of the clutch and break.  While I was at it, I shortened the rubber puc in the break pedal by about a millimeter or two to increase break travel.  I use paddles and left foot breaking; the pedals were too close in their original position.

There seems to be a Logitech Gaming Software  package for almost every system; you have to try several to get one to work with your system.  There is even  a gaming profile for GPL.  I have a home built gaming rig running on windows 7 with a I7 quad core CPU overclocked to 3.35, 12 gigs of ram and a 1 terabit Samsung SSD;  up-to- date 4 gig graphics card, a 25 inch gaming screen, and quality speakers make up the rest of the package.

All in all I would highly recommend the G29 when properly set up.  Sales pitch is over ... thanks for listening!   Pete, I hope yours finds a good home.

Best ... Roger

#13 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 19 2019 - 01:21 PM

It has a home. :) I'll just keep it. Like you I don't use all the degrees it turns. Mine is like a go kart. Full turning back and forth while keeping my hands on the wheel. I set it to full linear. I feel zero dead spot on center in wheel travel or FF feel. I can't tell the difference between it and the Fanatec. Of course the Fanatec is smoother since it uses a belt instead of the gears but even that I only notice it when i'm not driving. When driving I don't even notice it.

Edited by Pete Gaimari, Dec 19 2019 - 01:22 PM.


#14 one2fwee

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Posted Dec 20 2019 - 06:21 PM

Well, I wish you luck and if you are keeping it as backup then nice too :)

If you do the test I told you , it will tell you if there is a FFB deadzone. It is less noticable in GPL because the roads in gpl have a lot less small bumps and you don't exactly feel the tyres squish as much. I can still feel it though.
I noticed it straight away braking in netkar pro. Try with one of the newer sims if you have any. You will notice it in the small, initial tyre squish under braking - you basically will feel it a lot less, or not at all. Apart from that, my G27 is of course a lot better than my momo.

But really, if you can try the test, I am quite curious

#15 Pete Gaimari

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Posted Dec 21 2019 - 08:11 AM

To be honest. I'm not much into FF. I consider it an aid that does more than a real race car would. I can feel the wheel pulling trying to counter steer. A real car doesn't do that. A real car will o back to center if you let it go like in drifting but it won't be so strong that it will pull hard if you just hold the wheel and let a slide continue. It will also pull trying to keep you on the racing line.

I used a TSW for years and it has no FF. I set all my rank times with it and was faster than when it finally gave up and I went to a FF wheel. I pretty much only setup enough force to center the wheel. I've tried it with full force and it wants to steer the car for me. I don't like that. So, how good the FF is in a wheel doesn't have much meaning to me.

#16 one2fwee

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Posted Jan 05 2020 - 02:28 AM

Sorry, for the late reply!

I agree, the most annoying thing for me is when the wheel oscillates and things.
I always assumed this was down to the way force-feedback was implemented, sending forces to the wheel and reading its position, rather than reading the forces applied to the wheel (by the user) and telling it to move to a certain position.
However watching some videos from Niels Heusinkveld makes me believe that maybe it is also down to a lack of simulation of damping  / inertia forces in the steering system as a whole. If so, it surprises me that force feedback in games does not try and model this so that it can be simulated specifically for each car.

See these two videos, especially the first one where he is talking about configuring a direct drive wheel for various simulated cars individually and the problems that need to be overcome:
https://www.youtube....h?v=v98AxZNR5jI

https://www.youtube....h?v=pCq01LHaIVg

What i find strange is that he doesn't mention anything about why sims do not simulate these things (assuming they don't).

Anyway, you could try adding damping, friction and inertia to your ffb to see if it helps. Watch the first video in particular to give you an idea.

#17 Roger_F

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Posted Jan 29 2020 - 10:27 AM

Probably time for an up date on the Logitech G29 /  G920 wheel, pedals and shifter setup for GPL.

After a month and a half of reading everything I could find on the subject and getting great advice from many on this site, I am well on my way to a very satisfying adaptation of a Logitech G29 wheel / pedals / and shifter hardware to GPL and all it's mods.  I started this journey when my old MOMO gave up the ghost about 2 months ago.  Here is a summary of what I found and where I am in this process.  This point in time is pretty close to stock  ... the next phase will probably include a lot of hardware modification and will as a result be for a much leaner audience.

First off, you need to get a Logitech software package that fits your computer; this is a trial and error process that is not well defined but very necessary.  I'm running a home built gaming platform on windows 7 and after some considerable effort found a Logitech package that worked.  Once you get this far you then need to adapt the package for GPL.  There is a factory profile just for GPL that is a good basis for development.

Once you get this far you need to customize the package to your tastes.  First you have to define the myriad of G29 buttons to talk to GPL.  The next steps are the mapping of the wheel rotation in degrees, the brakes, the clutch and the shifters to your liking.  Many of these settings are personal preferences and are subject to a lot of trial and error.  Wheel rotation, in degrees, can be varied from 900 degrees to less that 300; I settled on 360 degrees after a lot of testing.  Setups seem to like about a 9 to 1 steering ratio.  Braking is dependent on LF verses RF foot styles;  each pedal has three different mounting  locations to facilitate some adjustment.

Left Foot Brakers should mount the gas pedal as far to the right as possible and the break as for to the left as possible; you can gain over an inch of separation from the stock settings.  If this is not enough for you, consider taking the pedal set apart and exchanging the break and clutch pedals.  this works great for Left Foot breakers!

Right  Foot Brakers, need to employ the opposite approach: move the break and gas closer together and the clutch as far to the left as possible.  This was my final approach but the clutch is still too close to the brake, so a future mod is probably to invert the pedals and locate the clutch several inches to the left of the brake.

Shifting with the Logitech H pattern shifter is an interesting situation.  Fairshift can be made to work but it can be a long drawn out process.  There is a lot of coordination needed between Logitech software, Fairshift software, GPL Mods, and the windows version you are using.  It is probably a mod by mod effort.  I got it to work on several mods and decided I did not care for the result; some of this was the fairshift software and some of this was the Logitech shifter itself.

My final solution was to convert my shifter to a sequenced shifter using the kit from madlap.eu.  I can not say enough good things about this kit; design, craftsmanship, and materials were all top notch.  E-bay cost was $20 plus state tax; shipping from Lithuania was included in the price.  This is a CNC machined part of sandwiched aluminum composite that fit like a glove; I have no idea how they can do this for $20.  I tried some of the home conversion methods for sequenced shifting on this shifter and it was no contest!

Once converted, you can map the shifter to the wheel in the GPL mod package in the CONTROLS section of the OPTIONS menu.  Shifter in the upshift is button 14 and downshift is  button 15.  You avoid all the hassle of getting Fairshift to work and essentially trade the paddles for a sequenced shifter ... all inside of GPL.  The shifts are very crisp and precise.  If you want to get a little fancy you can reuse the shift boot but you need to do a little drummel tool work on the four corners where the CNC machined corners touch the shifter boot.  Took about 30 minutes of measuring, grinding, and testing; you will also need longer screws; the original screws work fine without the shift boot.

I have written other posts on Ffb3test1 FFB software, this is a must with this software / hardware package and you should consider tuning each mod to a different set of control numbers for maximum effect.  You can definitely feel significant FFB differences between physics models if you use the same FFB settings for every mod.

That is enough for now, but don't let anyone tell you the G29 wheel does not work with GPL ... it takes some effort but the end result is well worth the effort!

Best ... Roger




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