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Need Some Advice Installing Windows 7


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#16 Cookie

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Posted Nov 08 2018 - 11:09 AM

I confirm that the short living of SSDs is fake news!

I never had a failing SSD using them in 4 PCs as system disk, but ~ 15 failing HDDs made me loose some data in the last ~20 years.

#17 SV3000

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Posted Nov 08 2018 - 11:48 AM

Depends on build quality, and HDD requires extra care (must avoid shaking while powered on, otherwise can break very fast). I have like 3 HDD broke so far in the past 20 years, 2 of them were laptop's, which caused by constant shaking, they wore out pretty fast, desktop PC usually don't have this problem. (PS: My current 2nd 320gb HDD was bought in 2006, still in very good condition, running linux atm)

#18 TurboMan

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Posted Nov 08 2018 - 04:08 PM

Another question, what should i do first, [Windows Update] then [Drivers + Antivirus + Utilities], or the reverse process?
I think Windows Updates first of all but it's better to ask before.

Many people use SSD for the OS and programs installed, and HDD for external/secondary storage. Probably will go for that scheme in the future. Build quality and correct use and mainteinance would be enough for both to keep them for years. For now, will stick with this HDD. Anyway, SSDs should get cheaper through these coming years, plus i don't need a huge amount of space, so in the end it shouldn't be a problem.

#19 twinpotter

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Posted Nov 08 2018 - 04:41 PM

I would definitely do the Windows updates first, along with the AV. Then drivers and utilities. IMO.

As far as SSD drives you would have a better system with more response. Please take the advice. Well worth the upgrade. As for wearing out I'm not aware of this. I only know and learnt that if you fit one don't maintain by defrag, as that doesn't need to be done and can damage your ssd.

TP 😁

#20 Daniel0099

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Posted Nov 09 2018 - 09:59 AM

Stick with Win7 as long as you can.

I bought a new powerful PC (many times faster than my old one) and installed Win10, and I disabled updates to avoid the problems others have with updates in the background. But I found that I had to run GPL at a lower Res to get the 36FPS. After long investigation, didn't find any problem with the install.

So I managed to install Win7 (dual boot) on that same new PC (Same hardware for both OS). To my surprise I could run GPL at full Res (twice the resolution than Win10) without problems. Beside I don't do updates very often to avoid spyware and when I do I choose what I'm updating.

I have SSDs in my PCs and recommend it. Had one for about 3 years now and had no problem. Litterature says it will last longer than HDD. Files (and Track) loading is a blast but that wont improve your FPS.


Good luck

Dan

#21 Daniel0099

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Posted Nov 09 2018 - 10:13 AM

One other thing I forgot to tell you:
I went to my bank lately (IMPORTANT and WELL KNOWN bank here) and they are using Win7...

#22 TurboMan

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 10:19 AM

I've decided to take this with a little more of patience and re-read the wonderful FSX Bible by NickN and follow all his steps... just to discover i've already made some mistakes...

[ FSX Bible here if anyone interested -> http://srmz.net/inde...showtopic=10956 ]

First and most important, buying a OEM PC. Completely not recommended by NickN. Anyway i have to stick with this and continue with the guide to get as much optimisation as i can, given our budget it wouldn't get much better.

Now i find myself discovering the "weak link" of my hardware. However, my knowledge is too basic and maybe someone could give me advise if i post more detailed specs (probably many of them unnecessary but i post them if needed):

Most of them come from CPU-Z v1.87, and HDD info from CrystalDiskInfo v6.3.0

CPU:
Intel Core i5-4590 3.30 GHz
- Turbo Boost 3.70 GHz on single core high demand applications
- 4 cores, 4 threads
- Haswell
- Max. TDP: 84.0 W
- Technology: 22 nm
- Socket: 1150 LGA
- Core Voltage: 1.760
- Bus Speed: 100 MHz
- L1 Data Cache: 4 x 32 KB 8-way set associative, 64 B line size
- L1 Instructions Cache: 4 x 32 KB 8-way set associative, 64 B line size
- L2 Cache: 4 x 256 KB 8-way set associative, 64 B line size
- L3 Cache: 6 MB 12-way set associative, 64 B line size

MB:
MSI H81M-E33 (MS-7817) 1.0
- Chipset: Intel Haswell Rev. 06
- Southbridge: Intel H81 Rev. C2
- LPCIO: Nuvoton NCT6779
- BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. V6.7 04-21-2015
- Graphics Interface: PCI-Express, Link Width x16, Max. Supported x16

RAM:
8 GB DDR3 Single Channel
- NB Frequency: 800 MHz
- DRAM Frequency: 800 MHz
- FSB:DRAM: 1:6
- CL: 11 clocks
- tRCD:  11 clocks
- tRP: 11 clocks
- tRAS: 28 clocks
- tRFC: 208 clocks
- CR: 1T

SPD:
** Slot #1
- DDR3
- Module Size: 8192 MB
- Max. Bandwidth: PC3-12800 (800 MHz)
- Manufacturer: Samsung
** Timings Table:
Parameter -- JEDEC #3 -- JEDEC #4 -- JEDEC #5 -- JEDEC #6 -- Unit
Frequency -- 609 -- 685 -- 761 -- 800 -- MHz
CAS# Latency -- 8.0 -- 9.0 -- 10.0 -- 11.0
RAS# to CAS# -- 8 -- 9 -- 10 -- 11
RAS# Precharge -- 8 -- 9 -- 10 -- 11
tRAS -- 22 -- 24 -- 27 -- 28
tRC -- 30 -- 33 -- 37 -- 39
Voltage -- 1.50 -- 1.50 -- 1.50 -- 1.50 -- V

GPU:
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050
- Memory: 2 GB GDDR5
- Graphics clock: 1354 MHz
- Processor clock: 1455 MHz
** Adapter info from Windows
- Total available memory: 5860 MB
- Memory dedicated to video: 2048 MB
- System video memory: 0 MB
- Memeory shared with the system: 3812 MB

PSU:
Coolbox EP-500
- 500W
- 2 SATA
- 12 cm
- ATX
- Input (AC): 220 V 5 A 50-60 Hz
- Max Output (DC):
+3.3 V 20 A
+12 V 25 A
-12 V 0.5 A
+5 V 25 A
+5 Vsb 2.5 A

Searched for it and it seems it's no quality product (as i feared), too cheap in my opinion.

HDD:
Seagate 3 TB
- Interface: SATA
- Transfer Mode: SATA/300 | SATA/600
- Standard: ATA8-ACS | ATA8-ACS version 4
- Rotation Rate: 7200 rpm
- Features: S.M.A.R.T., NCQ

S.M.A.R.T. values throw no problems, no errors, no sectors reallocation, no G-Sense errors, cool temperature.



So the weak points are:
- Low quality PSU
- Mechanical storage (already suggested to shift to an SSD)

- Too high timing and too low speed on the memory? Maybe should it be a 1600 MHz 6-6-6 to get balance?
- Not a good CPU-MB-GPU matching?

What do you think about the last 2?

Specs without having into account the SPU, Network Card and the Optical Unit, as the ones provided will do the job for now.

Will work on the case now, the air flow seems quite good but i will move all the wires because some of them are a bit messy.

Edited by TurboMan, Nov 16 2018 - 10:30 AM.


#23 Cookie

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 10:45 AM

Yes this PSU seems low quality, better would be a 80+ labeled...

The RAM is very slow but can easily pushed by adding a same cheap 8GB piece to get it run in "dual mode"

CPU-MB-GPU matching is fine, only braked atm by slow single mode RAM.

#24 TurboMan

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 11:05 AM

About RAM, you mean buying another 8 GB, insert it, and setting up something in the MoBo to run in dual channel?
Wouldn't it be better purchasing a quality 8 GB instead?

I'm starting to consider a small invesment and delay my cockpit building.

Would it make a big difference to change the PSU to an EVGA 80+ 500W, for example.

#25 Cookie

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 11:17 AM

Yes, dual mode run by two same modules is most important, the timings make no big difference, a Samsung RAM can be OCed a bit later (9-9-9 @ 1600).

The PSU is very cheap (11€ :wacko:) but as long as it works and you do not exceed the 500Watts I would try it.
Most important is to not let it be connected  to the electricity when not used, pull the plug! Or use a switched multiple plug device.

Edited by Cookie, Nov 16 2018 - 11:21 AM.


#26 TurboMan

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 11:31 AM

I had a look at the voltages during a good amount of time on CPU-Z and they kept stable. However i don't know if they are real-time updated (like the bus speed and core speed). It doesn't get too hot either, for now it works properly. I always unplug everything (except the essentials) when not in use, it may sound paranoid, but i live in a village and the power supply gets unstable when raining, so i prefer not risking appliances.

You have cleared some doubts i had, thanks :thumbup:

#27 TurboMan

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 12:09 PM

More doubts about RAM understanding. Is my memory 800 MHz or 1600 MHz? If i were to purchase another RAM, should i look for a DDR3 800 MHz CL11? Or DDR3 1600 MHz CL11?

Need to learn about DDR3 speed, not very clear on my mind :s

#28 Cookie

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Posted Nov 16 2018 - 12:48 PM

You should look for exactly the same module, it is PC3-12800 (800 MHz) = DDR3 1600MHz

There is a sticker on it with some letters, search for this ID, it is a mass built RAM for business PCs, slow timed for maximum stability ;)

You can use HWinfo64 to get the name:

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#29 TurboMan

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Posted Yesterday, 12:44 PM

Ok, i see. Will have a look at that, and hopefully i will have all the hardware operating for the next week.




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