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Gpl Shift


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#1 Wee Scot

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Posted Feb 27 2013 - 02:40 PM

I've read through a number of threads, and I think this is right, but someone please confirm:

Will I get the latest version of GPL Shift for use with my G25 at

http://www.gplshift.dk/

???

Can anyone point me to "the" definitive thread that explains how to set it up and use it?

Thanks!

#2 Bob Simpson

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Posted Feb 27 2013 - 02:56 PM

That's correct.

Just unzip the files to the GPL folder and run GPLshift_Patch.exe

Then open gplshift.ini and adjust as desired.  For the G25 or G27 -
[ Shifter Unit ]----
Shifter_Model = AUTO

Where it asks for the game device number, find that in Control panel > Devices and printer (win 7) > Right click on the G25 > Game controller settings and see the list where the top one is #1.

You can 1) set the clutch to be required for shifting gears [ Clutch Device ]----Clutch_Threshold = , 2) Reset the tach telltale with a controller button, 3) ditto for Car Reset (shift+R), use keys to zoom the FOV and change the POV, 4) send PO or PI chat messages, 5) use a key to adjust the sound output level in GPL and a few other things.

For the shfterr.wav which sounds like grinding gears when the forced clutch and H-shift isn't properly coordinated, see http://srmz.net/inde...?showtopic=4383

Edited by Bob Simpson, Feb 27 2013 - 03:05 PM.


#3 Wee Scot

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Posted Feb 27 2013 - 09:37 PM

Thanks, Bob! I'll follow your directions tomorrow. My body can't take staying up into the Wee hours again tonight...

BTW, I was surprised to discover that--at least for the G25--the lower the number in the GEM Controls, the stronger the FFB effects. Is this due to the same factor(s) that require me to "reverse" the FFB effects in GTR2? I settled on the default settings of .085 for Latency and 40 for Damping, but took Maximum Force down to 150. Now steering the 1965 mod is a "real" workout!

While i'm on this subject, can you explain if and how the values for Latency and Damping are intended to relate to the "real world"?

For example, when I set Latency to 0, I immediately feel any steering input. But what does .085 represent, and how far above 0 could I get? I assume the purpose of Latency is to model how you have to move the steering wheel a fraction of a second before you need the tires to bite and take the steering input. Correct?

As for Damping, I tried 200 but couldn't really tell what I had as a result, except that I didn't like it and went back to 40. Please explain what the Damping values are meant to represent.

Finally, how do I adjust the steering radius for my G25? The default setting seems to be just 180 or 200 degrees, but the virtual steering wheel in my BRM P261, set in the game Controls at the default ratio of 18:1, appears to move through 270 or more degrees. I haven't checked to see if the virtual movement depicted on screen changes as you change the steering ratio, but I'd at least like to match the steering radius of my G25 to what I'm seeing on screen.

Thanks!

Edited by Wee Scot, Feb 27 2013 - 09:45 PM.


#4 Bob Simpson

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Posted Feb 27 2013 - 10:30 PM

In GPL, the FFB gets stronger as you lower that number for all wheels.  Nothing to do with "reverse" effects in other sims.  Mine is set to around 210.

Rather than trying to explain Latency (something to do with predicting forces some milliseconds in the future) and Damping (there have been big inconclusive debates about what this does), I'd recommend using brr's ffb2 patch at http://srmz.net/inde...?showtopic=4226  Install that and set the values for those to 0.

I pay little or no attention to the wheel movement on the screen.  See the discussion at http://srmz.net/inde...t=15#entry85692  I use 540° and a ratio of between 8:1 and 10:1 with my G25 wheel.

#5 Wee Scot

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Posted Feb 27 2013 - 10:49 PM

"...the FFB gets stronger as you lower that number..." Here again, as with the AI Strength setting, the relationship (more is less; less is more) is counter intuitive, but no matter. Thanks again for your advice ...and good night!

Edited by Wee Scot, Feb 27 2013 - 10:52 PM.


#6 Wee Scot

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Posted Mar 01 2013 - 11:05 PM

I just participated in my first ADC races, and I think I'll stick to paddle shifting for the foreseeable future! Right now it's still hard enough for me to keep the car pointed in the right direction without worring about taking one hand off the wheel and finding the right slot in the G25 H-shifter. Even the BRM P261, which I love and find very manageable, requires two-handed attention in the absence of the in-game throttle and brake assistance, which are not provided as options for on-line races. I'll still install GPLShift just to try it, maybe tomorrow, but I doubt I'll be spending much time using it!

#7 ducwolf

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Posted Mar 03 2013 - 02:36 AM

View PostWee Scot, on Mar 01 2013 - 11:05 PM, said:

I just participated in my first ADC races, and I think I'll stick to paddle shifting for the foreseeable future! Right now it's still hard enough for me to keep the car pointed in the right direction without worring about taking one hand off the wheel and finding the right slot in the G25 H-shifter. Even the BRM P261, which I love and find very manageable, requires two-handed attention in the absence of the in-game throttle and brake assistance, which are not provided as options for on-line races. I'll still install GPLShift just to try it, maybe tomorrow, but I doubt I'll be spending much time using it!

I had the same trouble when I changed to H-shifter and clutch, but believe me it's worth to continue. I found out that I have to alter the brake bias to one or two clicks more for the front wheels and
less diff lock to the rear wheels. Later shift down may also help to keep the car stable in the breaking zone. But the handling of the shifter gates together with heel and toe is definatly a question of
practice and patience. For me as a sound addict this driving method also increased the immersion of sounds enormously.

edit: For Your question about the damping values take a look at the old "no-grip" thread ;)  post 102. Do You remember ?
http://www.nogriprac...2&postcount=102

Wolfgang

Edited by ducwolf, Mar 03 2013 - 02:42 AM.


#8 Wee Scot

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Posted Mar 03 2013 - 02:10 PM

Wolfgang, thanks for the advice. All of the chassis setup considerations are new to me. Never adjusted anything but brake bias and wing angles in the past. Yesterday I started experimenting with moving the brake bias forward, but I find Monsanto is still quite challenging, what with at least three significant downhill braking zones. I'll try your suggestion of doing more of my braking before downshifting, using less engine braking. Reducing the rear wheel differential lock value? Since I don't have GPL open in front of me as I type this, I'll hope that's an easily understood adjustment. Do you think my sudden and unexpected losses of control braking downhill were due more to brake bias or differential lock?

I certainly want to develop a good technique with the GPL manual transmission. Never had so much fun in a real car as when I was heel-and-toeing in my MGB! Now I'll go take another look at that post #102.

Edit: I'd already made several notes to myself last week from rereading that great post of yours in NoGrip, and used them as i tried out adjustments to the default latency, damping, and torque settings, but now I'm going to try raising the damping factor a bit. I wrote in another post that I'd reduced torque to 100 and liked the feeling, but now I've gone back a bit to 150 again. I find the default setting of 225 to be too "loose" for my taste.

Thanks again for the advice--for "the friendly answers"--and for your contributions to making the 21st century version of GPL so much more fun and immersive than the original!

:drive:

Edited by Wee Scot, Mar 03 2013 - 02:26 PM.





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